Garrulous: Given to excessive and often trivial or rambling talk; tiresomely talkative, especially on trivial matters.
Specialty Coffee has come a long way from the times when most aspired to be like Starbucks to now when most aspire to be most unlike Starbucks, but I believe companies may be better served taking a peek at what Big Green is doing right. Like it or not, Starbucks is still growing and is having an even bigger impact on coffee perceptions and customer expectations. Starbucks focuses very well on their customers wants and is constantly probing for the right formulae. Howard Schulz (Starbucks CEO) speaks with a very clear voice on satisfying expectations, delivering value and delighting their patrons. Starbucks achieves this by focusing solely on the customer.
Concurrent to this Specialty Coffee has been engaged in an exercise of self-indulgent narcissism that is completely removed from the customer experience and has more to do with gazing in the mirror than looking at the customer. Whether it is the proliferation of new and trivial competitions where contestants are encouraged to elucidate their solitary experiences and the judges stand in as proxies for real customers, or an effort to elevate the barista so far above mere counter service that they fail to serve effectively, the result is the same, an industry so engaged with itself that they've disengaged from the customers.
Very recently a twitter thread appeared in my timeline (re-tweeted by someone I admire and follow) concerning the inconsequential but fashionable topic of cold brew, leveraging standards and protocols that a lab would have a difficult time reproducing. The impression that the garrulous participants (two former Board Members of the Specialty Coffee Association of America) were clearly debating not so the customers might have a better experience, but so their audience might be impressed with their staggering mastery of all things trivial was not lost on the re-tweeter. These exchanges happen every day among the leaders of the Specialty Coffee Industry and are hard to miss given the disproportionate number of times these threads appear in SCAA publications and their social media feeds thereby securing the Associations implicit nod of approval.
Presently we portray an industry that has moved from taking twitter shots of latte art to examining nonsense in minute detail and fetishizing exotic coffees and preparation techniques in the hope of gaining affirmation from our peers instead of our customers. We have completely failed to understand that it’s the customers experience that matters, not the barista’s and that a great conversation over average coffee at Starbucks is better than a great coffee and a performance at (insert café name here). We don’t get it, but Starbucks does.
Here’s hoping that current and future SCAA Leadership and Executive Council positions are populated with people who act like customers, not competitors.
*Drop Dead Garrulous is (what I think) a clever play on words and not a desire that anyone die or be otherwise harmed as a result of my post.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
Posts
Richard,
ReplyDeleteI respect you and your blog, especially considering it tends to focus on a topic seldom discussed (including many lessons I've learned the hard way), which is why I'm a bit bewildered by this blog post.
Debating issues regarding coffee brewing is absolutely in pursuit of a better customer experience. I think it's clear you're calling Peter Giuliano and me out here, so I hope you don't mind me responding.
"Mastery of all things trivial?" How about dialogue and friendly debate among coffee professionals regarding expert-level science and experiences? Is it really that direct a path from that to being excoriated, which you in then somehow turned into a finger-wagging of the SCAA?
The fundamental issue we were discussing is a question of paradigm: Is cold-brewed coffee an exemplary way to serve and present high-quality specialty coffee to our customers? It's a hot debate indeed, similar in many ways to light-roast vs dark-roast. Why does this mean those who engage in it are ignoring the focus on crafting an exemplary customer experience?
Thanks as always for your informative blog!
Nick
Nick,
Deletethank you for your thoughtful response.
In the interest of full disclosure I did not renew my SCAA company membership as my only way of registering my displeasure with the direction the SCAA has taken. I did renew my BGA membership.
Obviously my post speaks for itself, however I would point out a couple of things.
First, neither party are scientists and therefore cannot add anything to the absolutes.
Second, I am unaware of any credible scientists who conduct their science on twitter if their goal wasn't to attract attention to the individual rather than the subject matter.
Last, your "haters gonna hate" on twitter is an expected reaction not from me, but from many in the industry who recognize that it is not wise to criticize SCAA leaders. Why did I bring the SCAA into it?... because Peter and Nick represent the views of people who agree with Peter and Nick, and by implication through their granting the both of you a voice within their publications, the SCAA. The priorities of the leadership become the programs of the SCAA and it would be fantastic if someone in leadership took a step back and looked at whether the thousands of members should be paying to indulge the fancies of a few.
I think what you missed, as was their point, was making a better beverage for the customer. How they do it, though scientifically difficult, is irrelevant. They are actually debating back and forth, for the common good, and publicly, so that others can benefit from their ideas. Seemed pretty simple to me, they saw a problem and where trying to make it better.
ReplyDeleteVery nicely said, though any dissension is frowned upon.
ReplyDeletehttps://twitter.com/#!/NickCho/status/199722370527805440
This is exactly the problem with SCAA leaders, call for collaboration, then dismiss dissent. Classic
DeleteHmmmmmmm, the cold-brew conversation I observed and participated in was based on the flavor merits of two different extraction methods for iced coffee. As in, what produced a better cup of coffee FOR THE CUSTOMER.
ReplyDeleteBarista competitions are just a place for coffee nerds to geek-out with like-minded people with a similar - and relatively rare - interest. Criticizing them is like criticizing a Star-Wars fan for attending a Star-Wars convention.
We can agree that snobbery in coffee sucks, but the author should do less broad generalizing; there are lots of great folks in specialty coffee who understand this, and thrive on embracing and educating their customers while not making them feel dumb.
High-end specialty coffee has it's place in the industry, just as Starbucks does; comparing the two is unnecessary and irrelevant. One is passion-driven and based on what is in the cup, and the other is motivated solely by the bottom line. And they are both good at what they do, small roasters/cafes make great coffee; Starbucks makes a lot of money. You wouldn't compare McDonalds with the Blue Water Grill (NYC) would you? Same/same.
- Andrew of Forty Weight Coffee Roasters
Andrew, really great points. I agree, there are many, many great people in coffee I know. Probably one of the best is Jason Dominy who is obsessed with customers. I need to hear his voice and opinions more (new contributor to coffeegeek). Thanks again for your response.
DeleteRichard - I think everyone else is missing the point - tackling you on THEIR personal issue with cold brew.
ReplyDeleteWhat you stated regarding Starbucks' strength and Specialty's weakness is what a lot of people are thinking, and I certainly have been for a while We just needed someone to put it eloquently.
I work at origin in improving farmers practices and yields, and of course quality, and while I work at origin, we still like to keep up with the final clients, thus having a WBC setup for espresso machine and grinder, pour-overs, aeropress etc.
However, when traveling to countries especially USA and parts of Europe, the specialty micro-roasters certainly do give off an attitude that is not always welcoming, warm, or accepting, making the experience at their stores leaving something to be desired. One almost feels the individuals are trying too hard to impress, with the hipster-barista cliche coming true.
Just my thoughts
Thank you for your perspective from origin. That is a voice we rarely hear from and one that deserves greater weight.
DeleteRichard, you know I respect you and your knowledge, passion, diligence and friendship. But (yes that sentence leads to a but), I think the discussion and your premise do not connect. On the one hand I completely agree with you on some of the overall focus being too much on the coffee and too little on the customer. But I don't think this, or any, discussion on the merits, validity or taste opinions of brewing cold coffee is respective of that.
ReplyDeleteIt is important that we as an industry excel in our product. We must serve great coffee, experiment with great coffee, serve great coffee, love great coffee. If we are not passionate about "the widget" how can we expect our employees, customers and fellow industry members to benefit.
Yes, it must find its expression as a part of the whole. Or as I like to say, "It is not all about the coffee, it's all about the customer." Unfortunately the holistic view of a successful coffee shop is not an easy subject to fully discuss, even in a lengthy blog post...or 40. While I also agree that the SCAA and it's leadership have not always done the things I've wanted to see, they have many great people and done many good things.
On a positive note have you seen the newest competition. Coffee Fest created a Best Coffeehouse competition (bit.ly/IVr1sA). And although I am sure that me and you and Nick and Peter and a thousand other people may disagree on specifics of the competition, I think it is about time that someone (Thank You Coffee Fest and David H.) created such a beast. My staff is already energized to bring up every level of our store and that can never be bad. Whether or not one wins such a competition is less important. The improvements that can take place in a business by focusing on the customer experience will benefit everyone. And then customers wins, the store wins and coffee wins!
The competition focus is described as, "America's Coffeehouse Competition is designed to evaluate teamwork, hospitality, aptitude, professionalism, presentation and limits." Of course I'd love to see profitability in that list, but I think this is tremendous and is the best step I've seen in what we have discussed on what real success in a coffee business really means.
Lastly, because it is public - Nick, isn't it hypocritical to say, "I respect you and your blog." and "Thanks as always for your informative blog." and then overshadow it with "Haters gonna Hate" in a tweet. I think that represents part of the problem and what Rich is calling out here.
Jack, you are the voice I want amplified and I think you know that. I agree that the "best coffeehouse" competition is a step forward making it more about the team and less the individual. I urge everyone to follow Jack's blog and take some time to chat with him at Coffeefest or SCAA Event. For people looking to run a fantastic well balanced and profitable coffee shop I can think of no greater resource than Jack.
DeleteLast, on the twitter comment, it will come full circle when SCAA endorsed Sprudge sweeps in to demean and ridicule my comments or anyone else who opposes the opinions of their advertisers. Wait for it.
I agree with much of this great post. How dare you suggest that we might have something to learn from Starbucks. How dare you question anything to do with the SCAA. I do think that Nick and Peter are interested in a better product but often it comes at the price of dismissing everyone else's opinion. Lately I am completely embarrassed to be apart of this industry. I had a twitter interaction (on the iced coffee subject) with Oliver Strand, Tim Varney, Tim Wendelboe and Klaus Thomsen that was unbelievable. Both Tims multiple times referred to cold brew as "tasting like Monkey Balls"(and we wonder why The Nordic Barista Cup has ZERO female speakers). What professional in their right mind would use this language ? Could it be possibly that everyone has a different palate and 'gasp' thats not a bad thing. I find is that specialty coffee is made up of close minded bullies, that dismiss anything they disagree with. I think specialty coffee is in for a rude awaking in a couple years. What I see now is not a sustainable business model. Customers have been completely lost. I really applaud you for this post and for taking a stand.
ReplyDeleteThank you Jason for your thoughts and experiences. I've to say your comment regarding closed minded bullies rings true with me, and SCAA's coddling and encouragement of the mean spirit exemplified by Sprudge is a perfect example. There's an old saying: You are an average of the 5 individuals you most commonly associate with. If you were to create a twitter cloud of SCAA tweets, the biggest cyber bullies would reveal themselves in short order.
DeleteJason -
DeleteFirstly, Tim Wendelboe used the term "Monkey's Balls". I didn't.
Secondly, what has that got to do with the NBC and female speakers? Are you suggesting females are offended by the use of "Monkey's Balls" as a descriptor? There isn't any gay people speaking at the NBC either, what does that suggest? Nothing obviously.
Thirdly, you said it yourself - "everyone has a different palate", and the conversation demonstrates this : you like cold brew and i don't. Nothing more. You want to serve it - go for it. It has nothing to do with me.
Finally, our customers are certainly not lost. We love our customers and we have every right to chose what we serve at our bar and how we conduct ourselves on Twitter - if you think a random back and forth regarding cold brew on Twitter is bullying or a reflection of the industry, then you are mistaken.
Hi Richard,
ReplyDeleteI spend a lot of my time and money volunteering for SCAA, as do many others -- some of whom I agree with and many of whom I don't -- so I feel compelled to give you an alternate perspective on why membership and volunteering is important, rather than problematic.
You might be right in blaming SCAA Leadership, but be careful because, as my Pop says, "If you point a finger at someone else, you have 3 pointed back at you." Here's why...
- SCAA, like any trade association, is membership based
- As a member, you can be passive or active
- Active members often volunteer their time
- Like it or not, SCAA leadership is based on members (like me... but not you cause you didn't renew) who volunteer their time (like me)
Now, I don't believe in altruism, so for me, I approach my volunteering leadership position is not only helping with logistics for a short handed staff, but also (and most importantly for my own ROI) furthering my own interests and understanding... whether it is through discussion of cold brew, or planning a series of panels on Relationship Coffee, or teaching the SCAA sanctioned protocols for cupping for a cupping course.
Ok, so this is what I think is SUPER important to consider regarding the matter of implicit nod of approval:
- SCAA, like any business or association, has an org chart
- SCAA has Staff and Volunteer (members like me) Leadership
- SCAA staff includes, amongst others, a Science Advisor and a Social Media Coordinator
- SCAA, like any business of association, has many moving parts
- Social media moves fast
- Perhaps the Social Media coordinator did not ask the Science Advisor her opinion on the cold brew discussion before implicitly nodding for approval.
- Perhaps she did... but unless I see something from the Science Advisor stating that either one of those comments on cold brewed coffee are correct, I think the Social Media Coordinator has a right to spark discussion and we as trollers can either choose to ignore it or engage... and, hey now, at least it got this discussion going! But let's take it all with a gram of coffee.
Also...
- We're ALL still trying to figure this 'specialty coffee thing' out
- SCAA members, who can be volunteer leaders, are also humans. Humans, as you know, can be assholes. But they can also be fun and tolerant and kind... and I don't know where we would be if we were stuck in a vetting process to get only the latter 100% of the time. Coordination is tough!
Richard, there are openings on multiple SCAA committees... especially the lecture committee, on which I volunteer (come join me!!) There is a lecture track on retailing that could use your passion for the consumer. Wanna join?
Anyway... this is just one member's perspective. I am not speaking on behalf of the SCAA staff in any way.
- Colleen Anunu
REALLY nice reply Colleen!!! Very thoughtful and informing. Email me rich@coffeeco.ca and sign me up for the lecture committee. Your post encourages me that the right people are on site, maybe they need a bigger microphone.
DeleteI sorry for delaying posting the comments, I was on the road and this is the first opportunity to get to wifi. Thanks for all your posts.
ReplyDeleteRichard et al-
ReplyDeleteFirst of all, I am totally convinced that discourse and dissent, conversation and collaboration are good in all things including coffee. Call it garrulous if you wish, but I love discussing coffee in all its splendor- the small details and the big picture- with my coffee peers and with coffee lovers of all stripes. I would guess that you do too, which is why you started a coffee blog for coffee professionals. I get that you think of iced coffee and its preparation as "trivial" and "inconsequential", but I see it as a critical part of our service, particularly as we move into summer.
I made a video about a technique I think makes especially great iced coffee- designed to be accessible to both consumer and pro- and made an accompanying blog post ("for coffee pros only") about the reasons that I think it is a superior method. I'm proud that the video seems to have struck a chord with consumers- we're over 20,000 views so far, a fact which humbles and inspires me. I mention this only to show that our customers ARE interested in better technique, and that we can both interact at both a pro-level with each other and an accessible level with more casual coffee lovers.
I always blog and tweet with the hopes that I can be a voice in a vibrant discussion and debate about coffee, because this is how I learned, and I want to contribute. I value yours as a voice within that vibrant discussion, though I object to anyone who diminishes anyone else's contribution. I'd ask that you perhaps think of that before you start calling me and others out. I respect your right to call these subjects trivial, but I don't think that's an especially constructive thing to write a blog post about.
I will say that I wind up defending my habit of talking about coffee in an intellectual way a lot. I've been accused of forcing cupping down consumers' throats, and of being unnecessarily communicative about the details of coffee's history and process. Most critics take the tact you have- somehow assuming that coffee consumers are somehow not intelligent or interested enough in coffee to warrant that kind of discussion. I find that consumers are engaged and excited when we talk to them like peers, instead of trying to "dumb down" our conversation for public consumption. That's what I'm going for anyway.
Anyway, keep up the good fight,
Peter G
Peter,
ReplyDeletethank you for taking the time to promote your video.
I reject your assertion that my point is "the consumers are somehow not intelligent enough...". In fact you might find if you asked them that they are intelligent enough to recognize and dismiss trivialities and that it's our silly diversions which inspires ridicule and resentment among our customers. I think it's fair to say that my post struck a cord with our peers and I suggest you take the time to read what your peers have to say. Many within the Specialty Coffee Industry believe the garrulous do not represent collaboration and community, and if anyone is guilty of diminishing opinions and viewpoints it is they. Thank you for your advice on blog topics but I'll post about anything I think is relevant and important whether Peter G likes it or not.
Richard, I definitely agree about a general lack of consumer focus from the the specialty coffee industry. I believe that I am the first consumer to comment on here which might be indicative of your point. As a passionate home barista and genuine coffee appreciator, I find myself often on the fringe of the coffee industry. Individuals who see my passion to learn and appreciate coffee have been generous to engage me, but as a general movement the coffee industry does not seem to have a strategy or interest to engage me. How many consumer focused coffee events happen in Canada? I can't think of any? Is there any consumer component to the annual trade show? Ask the same question about educational courses? I'm thinking hands on courses for things such as equipment maintenance and preparation. Regular tasting events that are available for people to attend. I have lots of ideas, but there really isn't a forum in which consumers can participate or industry support to create these types of consumer centric educational programs. From the consumer view, all the attention seems to be on roasters promoting their direct trade programs and everything they are doing on that front. Not to diminish this, but some consumers want more than that.
ReplyDeleteMichael,
Deletethan you for your contribution. Having attended the SCAA event for the past 14 years (exception Portland) I can see the benefit of introducing a consumer component. Truthfully, there is nothing to stop you from getting a BGA membership and attending the Barista Camp as well. Given next years event is in Boston you should definitely make the trip to see what goes on. You are the target market and the type of individual everyone should be courting.
I know I am in the minority (and certainly at odds with Peter) because I just don't think the consumer needs educated, in the slightest. As one customer so eloquently put it "sometimes I just feel like shouting, GIVE ME MY F'ING COFFEE!'. We are putting up such a barrier to customers. I cringe at most interactions I have in shops. We seem to be in a period where the focus is completely on the shops/baristas not the customers. One thing we always have to remember is that people can live without our product. In fact for most people its simply part of their daily routine, nothing more. And there isn't anything really wrong with that. We should make it our mission to have it be the most pleasant part of their day, but certainly not the focus of their day. What I find in most shops is just the opposite. I think much of the industry are like sheep, they follow without question. And the few that do question, like this blog, get called out immediately for not following in lock step. Thats just crazy. I don't fault Peter for trying to improve technique. I don't fault him for making a video of this technique. I fault him for labeling something 'a superior method'. By presenting it this way he is saying all other methods are 'inferior'. I don't deny Peter knows more than I will ever possibly know about coffee. But he can not decide other people's tastes/palates. One of the wonderful things about this world is the variation amongst all of us. When you start declaring things superior and others inferior its dangerous territory. I have a shop across the street (oddly enough a Counter Culture account) that always tells me my cold brew tastes like Yoo-Hoo, which is all good and even sort of funny. We sold 47,000 cold brews last summer. Guess some customers like iced coffee that tastes like Yoo-Hoo! The point is the gatekeepers of the industry need to open their minds a little bit, and not be so damn dogmatic. Stop the condescension, lighten up for Christ's sake. There is no one right way. If we put half the energy into hospitality as we do say our pour-overs amazing things might happen. But don't take my word for it. Do what feels right and comfortable. Cheers.
ReplyDeleteJason, awesome post! You pretty much covered what needs to be fixed in the single line "if we put half the energy into hospitality as we do pour overs". I can point to events like the TED Conference/Coffee Common as a perfect example of the pervasive narcissism and clubby condescension that defines our era. The self declared "We are the best ergo you must be less than" attitude which drives the SCAA's singular focus on it's competitive programs that have nothing to do with delivering what the customer is demanding.
ReplyDeleteI think your point would be received much better if there was just a tiny bit of positivity. At this point, you just seem angry. What can we do to further the discussion of customer service improvement? What actions can we take that will create more community?
ReplyDeletePoint taken. I admit that the purpose of the post was to vent a little, but also to let others respond both positively and negatively. I agree that the next step is some suggestions for improvement. Stay tuned for a post in the next day or so that is more positive and constructive with suggestions taking into account the replies to date.
DeleteThank you all for your comments, both positive and negative. The positive make me feel like I'm not alone, the negative make me feel like I'm not necessarily right...which always has some truth to it doesn't it? I'm going to close comments now, not because I want to shut anyone out, but to ensure this doesn't turn into something completely negative as the previous commenter suggested. I will post some suggestions to improve on what I attempted to highlight and re-open comments once it's posted.
ReplyDelete